To keep a shirt collar open and looking sharp, you need to combine proper fit, specific accessories, and good care practices. The most effective methods involve ensuring the shirt is well-tailored and using tools like collar stays or collar clips to maintain its structure.
The Foundation: Proper Fit and Tailoring
A well-tailored shirt is the first step to a collar that naturally stays open and presents neatly. When a shirt fits correctly, its collar will sit properly around your neck and shoulders, reducing the likelihood of it collapsing or flaring awkwardly.
- Neck Circumference: Ensure the collar isn't too tight when buttoned, but also not so loose that it gaps excessively when unbuttoned. A good fit allows two fingers to comfortably slide between the collar and your neck.
- Collar Stand Height: The collar stand is the band of fabric that the collar leaf attaches to. A stand that's too short might cause the collar to lie flat, while one that's too tall can feel restrictive.
- Shoulder and Chest Fit: When the shoulders and chest fit well, the entire shirt drapes correctly, supporting the collar's structure. Avoid shirts that are too baggy or too tight, as both can distort the collar's natural hang.
Essential Accessories for Collar Support
Once the fit is right, specialized accessories can provide the extra support needed to keep your collar perfectly open and prevent it from folding over.
Collar Stays
Collar stays are small, rigid inserts that slide into hidden pockets on the underside of your shirt collar points. They are a classic and discreet way to keep your collar looking crisp and prevent the points from curling or collapsing.
- Materials: Available in plastic, metal (brass, stainless steel), mother-of-pearl, or even horn. Metal stays offer more weight and rigidity.
- How They Work: Each stay is inserted into a small slit or pocket on the underside of each collar point. This provides tension and weight, holding the collar points flat and down.
- Benefits: Prevents curling, keeps collar points sharp, and maintains a clean line.
- When to Use: Ideal for dress shirts, business casual shirts, and any collared shirt where you want a refined, pointed look. Always remove them before washing or ironing.
- Example: If your shirt has a tendency for its points to fly up, collar stays will anchor them securely.
- For more information on selecting and using collar stays, consider resources like The Guide to Collar Stays or similar guides from reputable menswear sites.
Collar Clips and Magnets
For more robust collar support, especially when wearing your shirt with several buttons undone, collar clips or magnetic collar systems offer a stronger hold to prevent the collar from collapsing or splaying out excessively.
- Collar Clips: These small devices typically clip to the underside of the collar and then to the shirt placket (the strip of fabric where the buttons are). They pull the collar inwards and slightly upwards, maintaining a structured opening.
- Example: Some clips are designed to be invisible, blending with the shirt fabric.
- Magnetic Collar Stays: These systems use traditional collar stays (often metal) with small magnets attached. A separate magnet is then placed on the inside of the shirt, under the placket, to secure the collar point to the shirt body.
- Benefits: Offers a very strong, adjustable hold, allowing you to control the exact spread and height of your open collar. It's particularly effective for preventing the "bacon collar" look.
- For examples and purchasing, you can explore products like Würkin Stiffs Power Stays or similar magnetic collar solutions.
Practical Care and Styling Tips
Beyond fit and accessories, proper care and styling also contribute to a collar that stays open and looks good.
Ironing and Starching
- Proper Ironing: When ironing your shirt, pay close attention to the collar. Iron it flat first, then fold it along the natural crease line. A crisp, well-pressed collar is less likely to lose its shape.
- Starching: Applying a light starch can add stiffness to the fabric, helping the collar maintain its form throughout the day. Be mindful not to over-starch, as it can make the fabric feel overly rigid.
Fabric Choice
- Stiffer Fabrics: Shirts made from fabrics with more body, such as oxford cloth, pinpoint oxford, or heavier twills, will naturally hold their shape better than those made from very soft or lightweight materials like voile or some rayons.
Collar Support Systems
Some brands offer specialized, invisible plastic supports that fit under the entire collar, providing a more comprehensive structure than just collar stays. These are designed to be worn all day to prevent sagging.
Comparison of Collar Keeping Methods
| Method | Description | Benefits | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Proper Tailoring | Ensures the shirt fits well around the neck. | Natural drape, foundational support. | Long-term wear, overall shirt appearance. |
| Collar Stays | Small inserts for collar points. | Keeps points crisp, prevents curling. | Dress shirts, subtle point control. |
| Collar Clips | Clips collar to placket. | Prevents collar collapse/flaring, strong hold. | Open-collar looks, more structured appearance. |
| Magnetic Stays | Stays with magnets securing collar to shirt body. | Strongest hold, customizable spread, prevents "bacon collar." | Casual yet refined open-collar styles. |
| Starching/Ironing | Adds stiffness and shape through care. | Cost-effective, enhances fabric's natural hold. | All shirts, especially softer fabrics. |
By combining a well-fitting shirt with the right collar accessories and diligent care, you can ensure your collar remains open, sharp, and polished throughout the day.
