The South Col Route is widely recognized as the most famous and frequently climbed route on Mount Everest. This route, also known as the Southeast Ridge Route, is renowned for being the path Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay took for the first successful summit in 1953.
Understanding the South Col Route
The South Col Route approaches Mount Everest from the Nepali side, making its way through several iconic and challenging sections of the mountain. Its popularity stems from a combination of historical significance, established logistics, and a relatively more direct line to the summit compared to some other very difficult alternatives.
Key sections and features of the South Col Route include:
- Khumbu Icefall: A highly dynamic and dangerous section of seracs and crevasses, requiring expert navigation and often fixed ropes and ladders.
- Western Cwm (Valley of Silence): A vast, relatively flat glacier basin that leads to the base of the Lhotse Face. It can be extremely hot and reflective.
- Lhotse Face: A steep wall of blue ice that climbers ascend to reach Camp III and eventually the South Col.
- The South Col: A broad, saddle-like pass at around 7,900 meters (26,000 feet) that serves as the final staging camp (Camp IV) before the summit push. It's notorious for high winds and extreme cold.
- Hillary Step (historically): A near-vertical rock face just below the summit, a historically significant obstacle, though its form has changed over time.
- Summit Ridge: The final, exposed traverse to the highest point on Earth.
Comparing Major Everest Routes
While the South Col Route is the most famous, another significant and frequently used path is the Northeast Ridge Route, approaching from the Tibetan side. Both routes present immense challenges, but they differ in their characteristics and obstacles.
| Feature | South Col Route (Southeast Ridge) | Northeast Ridge Route (North Route) |
|---|---|---|
| Approach Side | Nepal (South) | Tibet (North) |
| Base Camp | Everest Base Camp (EBC) in Nepal (approx. 5,364 m / 17,598 ft) | Everest Base Camp (EBC) in Tibet (approx. 5,200 m / 17,060 ft) |
| Key Obstacles | Khumbu Icefall, Western Cwm, Lhotse Face, Geneva Spur, Yellow Band | North Col, Three Steps (First, Second, Third), Mushroom Rock, Ridge Traverse |
| Historical First | First successful ascent (Hillary & Tenzing, 1953) | Associated with Mallory & Irvine's last known location (1924) |
| Popularity | Most widely used and logistically supported | Second most popular, often chosen for different challenges |
| Logistics | More established infrastructure and support from Nepali side | Requires Chinese permits and logistical coordination on Tibetan side |
Why the South Col Route's Popularity Endures
The enduring fame and popularity of the South Col Route can be attributed to several factors:
- Historical Significance: Being the route of the first successful ascent provides an unparalleled historical legacy that continues to draw climbers.
- Established Infrastructure: Over decades, a robust logistical infrastructure has been developed on the Nepali side, including established base camp services, medical support, and experienced Sherpa teams.
- Accessibility: While still an extreme undertaking, the logistics from the Nepali side are often perceived as more straightforward for international expeditions.
- Known Challenges: The route's difficulties are well-documented, allowing climbers and expedition organizers to prepare meticulously for specific sections like the Khumbu Icefall and Lhotse Face.
The South Col Route remains an iconic challenge and a powerful symbol of human endeavor in the world of high-altitude mountaineering.
