The bust radius is a vital measurement in garment construction and pattern making, defining the distance from the bust point (the highest and most prominent projection of the breast) down to the base of the breast tissue, where it naturally joins the torso. This measurement is crucial as it essentially determines the radius of the 'bust circle' that pattern makers use to draft and adjust patterns for an accurate and comfortable fit.
Why is Bust Radius Important for Garment Fit?
An accurate bust radius measurement is fundamental for creating well-fitting clothing, especially for garments that require shaping around the bust, such as bodices, dresses, jackets, and bras. It directly influences:
- Dart Placement and Size: Ensures that bust darts, French darts, or contour darts are positioned correctly and have the appropriate depth to accommodate the breast curve without strain or excess fabric.
- Armhole Fit: Prevents gaping or tightness around the armholes, allowing for freedom of movement.
- Side Seam Contour: Helps create a smooth, flattering curve along the side seams, avoiding pulling or billowing.
- Overall Silhouette: Contributes to a balanced and professional garment appearance, preventing issues like fabric pooling above the bust or pulling across the chest.
How to Measure Bust Radius Accurately
Achieving a precise bust radius measurement is straightforward but requires attention to detail. For the most accurate result, it is essential to wear the bra or support garment you intend to wear with the final clothing item, as this will affect the natural shape and projection of the bust.
Here's a step-by-step guide:
- Wear Appropriate Undergarments: Put on the bra, bralette, or shapewear you plan to wear with the garment. This ensures your bust is supported and positioned as it will be in the finished outfit.
- Locate the Bust Point: Identify the highest and fullest point of your breast. This is often referred to as the apex.
- Find the Base of the Breast: Locate where the underside of your breast tissue meets your ribcage or torso. This is the natural curve where the breast ends.
- Measure Vertically: Using a flexible tape measure, measure straight down from the bust point to the base of the breast, following the curve of the breast.
- Record the Measurement: Note this measurement down carefully.
For clarity, consider the key points involved in this measurement:
| Measurement Point | Description |
|---|---|
| Bust Point | The highest and most projecting point of the breast. |
| Base of Breast | The lowest point where the breast tissue meets the torso. |
| Bust Radius | The vertical distance between the Bust Point and the Base of Breast. |
Applications in Pattern Making and Sewing
The bust radius is a critical data point for various pattern adjustments and drafting techniques:
- Bust Adjustments (FBA/SBA): When performing a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) or Small Bust Adjustment (SBA) on a pattern, the bust radius helps determine the necessary changes to darts and side seams to accommodate different bust sizes while maintaining the intended design.
- Princess Seams: For garments with princess seams that run over the bust, this measurement guides the shaping and curvature of these seams for a custom fit.
- Bra Construction: In lingerie design, the bust radius is fundamental for drafting the individual cup pieces and ensuring the bra offers proper support and shape.
- Pattern Drafting from Scratch: When creating patterns from personal measurements, the bust radius is one of the initial measurements taken to establish the bust's curvature.
Enhancing Fit with Accurate Measurements
Paying close attention to measurements like the bust radius significantly elevates the fit and comfort of handmade garments. It transforms a standard pattern into a custom-fitted piece, addressing individual body contours and preferences. For more detailed information on pattern adjustments, resources like Threads Magazine or Mood Fabrics often provide comprehensive guides.
