Perms, or permanent waves, were unequivocally cool and reached their zenith of popularity in the 1970s and 1980s, becoming a defining hairstyle of those decades. While the permanent wave has been a fixture of American culture since the late 19th century, it was during these two decades that it truly became a widespread and iconic trend.
The Enduring Appeal of the Permanent Wave
The concept of chemically altering hair to create lasting curls has a rich history. Early versions of the permanent wave emerged in the early 20th century, initially involving elaborate and sometimes dangerous machinery. Over time, the technology evolved, becoming safer, more accessible, and capable of producing more natural-looking results. This innovation paved the way for perms to transition from a niche salon treatment to a mainstream fashion statement.
A Brief Timeline of Perm Evolution
| Era | Key Characteristics | Popularity |
|---|---|---|
| Late 19th Century | Initial experiments with heat and chemicals for lasting curls. | Limited to wealthy or experimental individuals. |
| Early 20th Century | Introduction of machine perms, complex and time-consuming. | Gained traction among those seeking modern, short, curled styles. |
| Mid-20th Century | Cold perms developed, safer and more accessible. | Steadily grew in popularity, especially for classic, structured curls. |
| 1970s-1980s | Peak popularity with diverse styles from tight spirals to voluminous waves. | Massive trend, a cultural phenomenon. |
| 1990s-2000s | Decline in popularity, often associated with outdated looks. | Less common, though specific styles (e.g., body perms) had niche appeal. |
| 2010s-Present | Modern resurgence with focus on natural, loose waves and texture. | Gaining renewed interest, rebranded as "beach wave" or "digital" perms. |
The Golden Age of the Perm: 1970s and 1980s
The 1970s and 1980s were the decades where perms truly dominated the fashion landscape. This widespread adoption can be attributed to several factors:
1. Cultural Influences and Celebrity Style
- 1970s Disco Glamour: The era of disco brought a desire for big, bouncy, and voluminous hair. Celebrities like Farrah Fawcett (though her famous "feathered" look was achieved with rollers, the general desire for volume was present) and musical icons showcased full-bodied curls that a perm could easily deliver. The perm offered a way for everyday individuals to achieve that coveted volume and movement.
- 1980s "Big Hair Don't Care": The 1980s took volume to new heights. From pop stars like Madonna and Janet Jackson to movie stars and even male rock musicians, big, often curly or wavy hair was the quintessential look. A perm was the easiest, most enduring way to achieve this gravity-defying style, whether it was tight corkscrews or a softer, more voluminous wave. The emphasis was on bold statements and expressive individuality.
2. Evolving Technology and Accessibility
Advances in chemical formulations made perms less damaging and more versatile. Salons offered a range of perm solutions and rod sizes, allowing for customized curls—from tight spirals to loose, natural-looking waves. This accessibility meant that almost anyone could get a perm, making it a democratic fashion choice.
3. Practicality and Maintenance
For many, a perm offered a practical solution for daily styling. Hair that was naturally straight could be transformed into a low-maintenance curly or wavy style that held its shape, reducing the need for daily heat styling with curling irons. This "wash and go" appeal resonated with busy individuals looking for effortless style.
Beyond the Peak: Decline and Modern Revival
While perms saw a decline in popularity in the 1990s and early 2000s, often associated with overly coiffed or dated looks, they have experienced a significant resurgence in recent years. Modern perms, often referred to as "digital perms" or "body waves," focus on creating soft, natural-looking texture and loose, beachy waves rather than tight, uniform curls. This contemporary approach has brought perms back into the spotlight as a viable option for adding volume and low-maintenance style.
Perms are now seen as a way to enhance natural texture or add subtle movement, reflecting a shift towards more natural and effortless beauty standards.
