To make infrared photography, you capture light from the invisible infrared spectrum, creating ethereal and often surreal images with distinct characteristics like glowing foliage and dark skies.
How to Make Infrared Photography
Infrared (IR) photography involves specialized techniques and equipment to capture light beyond the visible spectrum, revealing a hidden world. There are primarily three main approaches, each with its own advantages and learning curve.
1. Understanding Infrared Light
Before diving into techniques, it's essential to understand that infrared light is a portion of the electromagnetic spectrum with wavelengths longer than visible light but shorter than microwaves. While invisible to the human eye, it can be detected by certain camera sensors and film, especially when visible light is filtered out.
2. Testing Your Camera's Infrared Capability
Before investing in specialized gear, you can perform a quick and simple check to see if your camera has some sensitivity to infrared light:
- Step 1: Grab a working television remote control.
- Step 2: Aim the small, clear emitter bulb at the end of the remote directly towards your camera lens.
- Step 3: While pressing any button on the remote, observe your camera's LCD viewfinder or activate its live view feature on the screen.
- Result: If you see the remote's bulb illuminate with a faint purple or white light on your camera's screen, your camera possesses some sensitivity to infrared light. This indicates it can shoot IR photos (though usually requiring a filter for true artistic results), as most digital cameras have an internal IR-cut filter that blocks most, but not all, infrared light.
3. Methods for Capturing Infrared Images
A. Using an Unmodified Digital Camera with an IR-Pass Filter
This is the most common and accessible method for beginners. Most digital cameras have an internal filter (Hot Mirror filter) that blocks much of the infrared spectrum to ensure accurate color reproduction in visible light. However, by adding a powerful external IR-pass filter, you can effectively block visible light and only allow IR light to reach the sensor.
Process:
- Attach an IR-Pass Filter: Screw an IR-pass filter (e.g., 720nm, 850nm, 680nm) onto your lens. The higher the nanometer (nm) rating, the more visible light is blocked, resulting in a purer IR image but also requiring longer exposures.
- Long Exposure Times: Due to the internal IR-cut filter, even with an external IR-pass filter, very little light reaches the sensor. This necessitates extremely long exposure times, often ranging from several seconds to several minutes, even in bright sunlight.
- Tripod is Essential: A sturdy tripod is absolutely crucial to prevent camera shake during these long exposures.
- Focusing: Since the filter is dark, focusing can be challenging. It's often best to focus manually before attaching the filter, or use Live View to zoom in and focus. Some lenses also have an "IR focusing mark."
- White Balance: Custom white balance is vital. Point your camera at something green (like grass or foliage) or a white/grey card with the IR filter on, and set a custom white balance. This will provide a more neutral starting point for post-processing.
- Remote Shutter Release: A remote shutter release (wired or wireless) helps avoid camera shake when pressing the shutter button.
B. Using a Modified Digital Camera (Dedicated IR Camera)
For more serious infrared photographers, modifying a camera is a significant upgrade. This involves removing the camera's internal IR-cut filter and replacing it with either:
- A specific IR-pass filter: This turns the camera into a dedicated IR camera, allowing for much faster shutter speeds (often handheld) comparable to regular photography.
- A "full-spectrum" clear filter: This allows the camera to capture all light (UV, visible, and IR). You then use external filters for specific effects (UV-pass, various IR-pass filters). This offers maximum versatility.
Advantages:
- Faster Shutter Speeds: Shoot handheld, capture moving subjects.
- Cleaner Images: Less noise from extended long exposures.
- Consistent Results: Predictable IR response.
Considerations:
- Cost: Professional modification can be expensive.
- Irreversible: The camera is permanently dedicated to IR or full-spectrum photography.
C. Using Infrared Film Photography
For traditionalists, specialized black and white infrared film (e.g., Ilford SFX 200, Rollei Infrared) offers a unique analog experience.
Process:
- Load IR Film: Load the film in complete darkness (or a changing bag) as it's sensitive to light across a broader spectrum.
- Use an IR Filter: Attach an IR-pass filter (like a Hoya R72) to your lens.
- Exposure and Focusing: Similar to unmodified digital cameras, long exposures and careful focusing are necessary. Film often has a different IR focus point than visible light.
- Develop: Process the film in standard black and white chemistry.
4. Essential Gear for Infrared Photography
| Item | Purpose | Recommendation |
|---|---|---|
| Camera | Digital SLR/Mirrorless (unmodified or modified) or Film Camera | Check for IR sensitivity. Modified cameras offer best results. |
| IR-Pass Filter | Blocks visible light, allows IR through | Hoya R72 (720nm), B+W 092 (720nm), Kolari Vision, cheaper alternatives like Zomei. |
| Tripod | Essential for long exposures with unmodified cameras | Sturdy model to prevent camera shake. |
| Remote Release | Prevents camera shake when activating the shutter | Wired or wireless, depending on camera. |
| Lenses | Standard lenses work, avoid "hot spots" (bright circular areas in IR) | Test lenses for IR compatibility; wide-angles are popular. |
| Neutral Density (ND) Filter (Optional) | Further extends exposure times, useful for extremely bright conditions | If you want even longer exposures than the IR filter alone provides. |
5. Tips for Stunning IR Photos
- Sunny Days Are Best: Infrared light is abundant on bright, sunny days, especially when there's plenty of green foliage. Overcast days produce flatter results.
- Consider Composition: Look for scenes with lush greenery (trees, grass), reflective water, and interesting cloud formations.
- Experiment with Filters: Different IR filter strengths (e.g., 590nm, 665nm, 720nm, 850nm) yield varying effects, from "false color" to pure black and white.
- Focus Carefully: Infrared light focuses differently than visible light. With an unmodified camera, focus before attaching the filter, or use Live View to magnify and refine focus. Some older lenses have an IR focus mark.
- Bracket Your Exposures: Take multiple shots at different exposure settings, especially when starting out, to ensure you capture enough detail.
6. Post-Processing Your IR Shots
Post-processing is crucial for infrared photography, as the raw files often appear dull or have a strong magenta cast.
- White Balance Correction: Start by setting a custom white balance (often on green foliage) during capture, but further adjustments in post-processing are usually needed. You might shift the temperature/tint drastically.
- Channel Swapping (for False Color): In software like Photoshop, swapping the Red and Blue channels can create striking "false color" effects, where foliage appears yellow or orange, and skies become a deep cyan.
- Black and White Conversion: Many IR photographers prefer to convert their images to black and white, enhancing contrast and clarity to emphasize the unique tones and textures.
- Contrast and Clarity: Boost contrast and clarity to bring out the details and the ethereal glow of subjects.
- Noise Reduction: If you used long exposures, apply noise reduction as needed.
By understanding the methods and embracing experimentation, you can unlock the captivating and otherworldly realm of infrared photography.
