Tying a women's kimono involves specific layering and fastening techniques, culminating in the elegant securing of the obi. It's a meticulous art that ensures the garment is worn gracefully and comfortably.
Understanding the Kimono Tying Process
Wearing a kimono is more than just putting on a dress; it's a step-by-step ritual that creates a beautiful, traditional silhouette. Each element, from the undergarments to the final sash, plays a crucial role in achieving the desired look.
Essential Kimono Components
Before you begin, gather the necessary items. While styles vary, a basic set for tying a kimono includes:
| Component | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Hadajuban | Under-kimono slip, acts as a base layer. |
| Susoyoke | Wrap-around skirt for under the kimono. Sometimes combined with hadajuban as nagajuban. |
| Nagajuban | Full-length under-kimono, often with a decorative collar. |
| Koshihimo | Thin waist cords used to secure layers. |
| Date-jime | Stiffer, wider band to flatten and secure the kimono under the obi. |
| Kimono | The main outer garment. |
| Obi | The decorative sash. |
| Obi-ita | Obi board, placed under the obi to keep it smooth and flat. |
| Obi-makura | Obi pillow, used to give shape to the obi knot (especially for taiko musubi). |
| Obi-age | Decorative silk scarf, tucked above the obi. |
| Obi-jime | Decorative cord tied around the obi. |
| Tabi | White split-toe socks. |
| Zōri or Geta | Traditional sandals. |
Step-by-Step Guide to Tying a Kimono
Follow these steps for a well-fitted and elegant kimono:
1. Prepare with Undergarments
Begin by putting on your traditional Japanese undergarments. This typically involves:
- Hadajuban and Susoyoke: First, don a hadajuban (under-kimono slip) and then a susoyoke (wrap-around skirt). Alternatively, you might wear a nagajuban, which combines these into a single garment.
- Nagajuban: Wear the nagajuban (long under-kimono) over your hadajuban and susoyoke. Ensure the collar is neat, and secure it with a koshihimo around your waist, similar to how you will secure the kimono itself. The nagajuban should show just a hint of its collar beneath the kimono's collar.
2. Don the Kimono
Carefully slip into your kimono.
- Center and Align: Hold the kimono up and let it fall around you. Make sure the center back seam of the kimono aligns with your spine.
- Adjust Length: Adjust the length so that the hem brushes the tops of your feet. For most women, this will mean creating an ohashori (tuck) at the waist.
- Overlap: Bring the right panel of the kimono across your body first, ensuring it fully covers your left side. Then, bring the left panel over the right. This is crucial: always left over right, as right over left is reserved for dressing the deceased.
3. Secure the Kimono with a Koshihimo
This step firmly holds the kimono in place and creates the ohashori.
- First Koshihimo: Take a koshihimo (waist cord) and place it right above your hip bones.
- Cross and Tighten: Bring the ends to your back, cross them, and pull to tighten the kimono securely around your waist, creating the ohashori (the neatly folded excess fabric).
- Tie a Half Bow: Bring the ends back to the front and tie a half bow by pulling one end and then the other to create the loops, and tuck in any leftover ends securely. This ensures the kimono stays taut and prevents it from shifting.
- Smooth and Flatten: Smooth out any wrinkles under the koshihimo by pulling the fabric upwards from the bottom. Ensure the ohashori is neat and even across the front.
4. Apply the Date-jime
- Flatten and Secure: Place a date-jime (a stiffer, wider belt) over the first koshihimo and the ohashori. This flattens the area, provides a smooth foundation for the obi, and offers additional support.
- Tie: Tie the date-jime securely at the front or back, depending on its design, ensuring it's flat and snug without being overly tight.
5. Prepare and Wrap the Obi
The obi is the most prominent accessory and often the most challenging to tie. There are many styles of obi and knots (musubi), but here's a general approach for a common fukuro or nagoya obi with a simple taiko musubi (drum knot):
- Obi-ita: Insert an obi-ita (obi board) between the kimono and the obi, at the front, to keep the obi smooth and wrinkle-free.
- Start Wrapping: Begin wrapping the obi around your waist, usually starting from the front with the end you wish to be the "tare" (the hanging part of the knot). The exact starting point and wrapping technique depend on the chosen knot.
- Wrap Tightly: Wrap the obi around your body two or three times, ensuring it is snug and even.
- Form the Knot: Bring the obi to the back to form your chosen knot. For a taiko musubi, you'll typically use an obi-makura (obi pillow) to give the knot its characteristic rounded shape. Secure the obi-makura with a koshihimo or dedicated straps, and then arrange the obi fabric around it to form the "drum."
- Secure the Knot: Carefully arrange and secure the knot, ensuring it is balanced and aesthetically pleasing.
6. Add Obi-age and Obi-jime
These are the final decorative touches that secure the obi and add elegance.
- Obi-age: Drape the obi-age (decorative silk scarf) over the obi-makura at the top of the obi, then neatly tuck and tie it in the front so only a small, soft puff of silk is visible above the obi.
- Obi-jime: Tie the obi-jime (decorative cord) around the center of the obi, over the knot you've created. This not only adds a decorative element but also helps hold the obi firmly in place. There are various ways to tie the obi-jime, with a flat knot being common.
7. Final Adjustments
- Collar: Ensure your kimono collar is neatly pulled back, revealing the nape of your neck, which is considered a point of beauty. The collar of the nagajuban should be visible just beneath the kimono's collar.
- Smoothing: Smooth out any remaining wrinkles in the kimono.
- Posture: Maintain good posture, as the kimono's structure is designed to complement an upright stance.
With practice, tying a kimono becomes a fluid and rewarding process, allowing you to appreciate the intricate beauty of this traditional garment.
