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How to Turn a Sock Heel?

Published in Knitting Sock Heel 5 mins read

Turning a sock heel is a crucial step in knitting socks that creates a cup-like shape at the back of the foot, ensuring a comfortable and well-fitting garment. This process primarily involves knitting short rows on the heel flap to gradually decrease stitches and form the heel's distinctive curve.

Understanding the Heel Turn Process

The heel turn follows the creation of the heel flap, which is a rectangular piece of fabric worked back and forth over roughly half of your sock stitches. Once the flap reaches the desired length, you begin the heel turn, which is a series of decreasing rows designed to sculpt the heel's cup. This technique uses "short rows," meaning you don't knit all the way across the row before turning your work, thereby shaping the fabric.

Step-by-Step Guide to Turning the Heel

The heel turn involves specific knit and purl decreases to create a rounded shape. Here's a breakdown of the initial steps and how to continue:

1. Preparation: The Heel Flap

Before turning the heel, you must have completed your heel flap. This flap is typically worked in a sturdy stitch pattern, like slip-stitch patterns, which creates a durable and elastic fabric. You'll usually have an even number of stitches on your needle for the heel flap.

2. The Initial Turning Rows

These first two rows set the pattern for the rest of your heel turn, creating the central stitches of your heel and beginning the shaping.

  • Row 1 (Right Side - Beginning the Turn):
    On the right side of your work, you will knit across half the stitches in the heel flap and then knit two more, SSK (slip, slip, knit), knit one, and turn your work.

    • The SSK (slip, slip, knit) decrease slants to the left, which is ideal for the right side of your heel. To perform an SSK, slip the first two stitches knitwise, then insert your left needle into the front of both slipped stitches and knit them together.
  • Row 2 (Wrong Side - Continuing the Turn):
    For the wrong side row, you'll slip one with yarn in front, purl five, p2tog (purl two together), purl one, and turn your work.

    • Slip one with yarn in front (purlwise) means to move the first stitch from the left needle to the right needle without working it, with the yarn held in front of the work. This creates a neat edge.
    • The p2tog (purl two together) decrease slants to the right, which is ideal for the wrong side of your heel. To perform a p2tog, insert your right needle into the second stitch on the left needle, then into the first stitch, and purl them together.

3. Repeating the Turn

You will continue to repeat these short rows, but with a slight adjustment after the initial two rows. The key is to work to one stitch before the gap created by your previous turn, perform the decrease, knit or purl one more stitch, and then turn.

  • Subsequent Right-Side Rows: Slip 1 knitwise, knit to one stitch before the gap, SSK, knit 1, turn.
  • Subsequent Wrong-Side Rows: Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, purl to one stitch before the gap, p2tog, purl 1, turn.

Continue these steps, progressively incorporating more stitches from the sides of your heel flap into the central heel cup. You'll know you're finished when all the stitches on either side of the central heel stitches have been worked into decreases, and only the central heel stitches remain on your needle.

4. The Gusset (Next Step)

Once your heel is fully turned, you will typically pick up stitches along the sides of the heel flap to create the gusset. This triangular section helps transition from the heel to the foot of the sock, accommodating the instep and creating a comfortable fit.

Tips for a Smooth Heel Turn

  • Count Your Stitches: Accuracy is key. Double-check your stitch counts after each decrease row to ensure your heel is shaping correctly.
  • Identify the Gap: The "gap" created by turning your work mid-row is important. You'll work up to the stitch just before this gap to perform your decreases.
  • Consistent Tension: Maintain an even tension, especially around the decreases and turns, to avoid holes or ladders in your fabric.
  • Use Stitch Markers: If you find it hard to distinguish the central heel stitches, place stitch markers to delineate them.
  • Practice Makes Perfect: Heel turning can be tricky initially. Don't be discouraged if your first attempt isn't perfect; practice will make it easier.

Common Heel Types

While the heel flap and gusset is a very common method, there are other ways to knit a sock heel:

Heel Type Description
Heel Flap & Gusset A classic, durable heel formed with a flap and then picked-up stitches for the gusset.
Short Row Heel A simpler, rounder heel that doesn't involve picking up stitches, often used for toe-up socks.
Afterthought Heel The heel is worked after the main body of the sock is complete, by cutting a stitch and working a new heel.

For more detailed tutorials and visual guides on various knitting techniques, including sock heels, explore resources like KnittingHelp.com.