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How do you knit a selvage edge?

Published in Knitting Techniques 6 mins read

Knitting a selvage edge involves creating a clean, often non-rolling, and stable finish along the vertical sides of your knitted fabric. These edges are crucial for projects that will be seamed, picked up for additional stitches, or simply displayed as a neat border.

What is a Selvage Edge?

A selvage edge, also known as a selvedge or selvedge stitch, refers to the stitches on the very outer sides of your knitted fabric. Unlike the main body of the knitting, these edge stitches are worked in a specific way to prevent curling, provide a neat finish, or create a strong seam allowance. They are an integral part of your stitch count, often added in pairs to each end of your row.

Types of Selvage Edges and How to Knit Them

There are several common methods for creating selvage edges, each offering different characteristics and benefits.

Garter Stitch Selvage

The garter stitch selvage is one of the most popular choices due to its flat, non-rolling nature and ease of creation. It's excellent for seams and provides a sturdy edge.

How to knit it:

  1. Add extra stitches: At the beginning of your cast-on, add two stitches to each end of your total stitch count. For example, if your pattern calls for 50 stitches, you would cast on 54 stitches (2 selvage stitches + 50 main stitches + 2 selvage stitches). When counting your total stitches for your project, remember to include these edge stitches; for instance, if you are counting in sets of stitches, you would count these in increments of two, like 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and so on, as part of your overall stitch count.
  2. Work the edge stitches:
    • Right Side and Wrong Side: Knit the first and last two stitches of every row.
  3. Main fabric: Work the stitches in between these selvage stitches according to your pattern (e.g., stockinette, ribbing).

Example: For a stockinette fabric with a garter stitch selvage:

  • Row 1 (RS): K2 (selvage), knit to last 2 stitches, K2 (selvage).
  • Row 2 (WS): K2 (selvage), purl to last 2 stitches, K2 (selvage).
  • Repeat these two rows.

Slip Stitch Selvage (Chain Edge)

A slip stitch selvage creates a decorative chain-like edge that is often used when stitches will be picked up later, such as for neckbands or button bands. It also reduces bulk in seams.

How to knit it:

  1. Add extra stitches: This method typically uses one extra stitch on each side for the selvage.
  2. Work the edge stitches:
    • Right Side: Slip the first stitch purlwise with yarn in back, knit to the last stitch, knit the last stitch.
    • Wrong Side: Slip the first stitch purlwise with yarn in front, purl to the last stitch, knit the last stitch.

Example: For a stockinette fabric with a slip stitch selvage:

  • Row 1 (RS): Sl1 pw (yarn in back), knit to last stitch, K1.
  • Row 2 (WS): Sl1 pw (yarn in front), purl to last stitch, K1.
  • Repeat these two rows.

I-Cord Selvage (Applied I-Cord)

An i-cord selvage creates a round, cord-like edge that offers a very clean and decorative finish. It's great for blankets, scarves, or project edges that won't be seamed. While more involved, it provides a polished look.

How to knit it:

  1. Cast on extra stitches: Typically, 3 or 4 extra stitches are cast on for the i-cord.
  2. Work the i-cord:
    • Begin and end each row: Instead of knitting directly into your main fabric, you'll create a mini i-cord on each end.
    • Typically, for a 3-stitch i-cord selvage, you would work: K2, slip 1 (yarn in back) then pick up a stitch from the edge of your main fabric, then knit the 3 i-cord stitches together with the picked-up stitch, and then work across your main fabric. The exact method can vary, often involving slipping the i-cord stitches to the right needle, knitting some, then knitting one with an adjacent main fabric stitch.
    • This is a more advanced technique, often requiring a dedicated tutorial for precise execution.

Why Use a Selvage Edge?

Incorporating a selvage edge offers several benefits:

  • Prevents curling: Especially in stockinette stitch, selvage edges help keep the fabric flat.
  • Creates neat seams: A stable edge makes seaming easier and results in a more professional finish.
  • Simplifies picking up stitches: A defined edge provides clear loops for picking up stitches evenly.
  • Adds stability: Reinforces the edges of your fabric, reducing stretching and distortion.
  • Aesthetic appeal: Provides a clean and finished look, particularly for edges that will be visible.

Tips for Perfect Selvage Edges

  1. Consistent Tension: Maintain even tension, especially on the edge stitches, to prevent a wavy or too-tight edge.
  2. Count Carefully: Always ensure you've cast on the correct number of stitches, including your selvage stitches, to maintain your project's dimensions.
  3. Practice: Some selvage types, like the slip stitch, might feel a bit awkward at first. Practice on a swatch until you achieve a consistent look.
  4. Consider Your Project: Choose the selvage type that best suits your project's needs (e.g., garter for seaming, slip stitch for picking up, i-cord for decorative finish).
  5. Use Stitch Markers: If you're new to selvage stitches, place markers to delineate where your selvage stitches end and your main fabric begins.

Comparing Selvage Types

Here's a quick comparison of the common selvage types:

Selvage Type Characteristics Best For Ease of Use
Garter Stitch Flat, non-rolling, sturdy, slightly visible ridges Seaming, stable edges, preventing curl Easy
Slip Stitch (Chain) Creates a neat chain along the edge, less bulky Picking up stitches, decorative borders, less bulky seams Medium
I-Cord Round, cord-like, very decorative, professional look Blankets, scarves, visible edges, non-seamed projects Advanced

When to Use Different Selvage Edges

  • Garter stitch selvages are ideal for garments and blankets where you will be seaming pieces together, as they provide a solid and easy-to-sew edge that doesn't roll.
  • Slip stitch selvages are excellent when you need to pick up stitches along an edge, such as for button bands, necklines, or collars, because the chain-like loops make it simple to find and work into each stitch evenly. They also create a very neat and slightly firmer edge.
  • I-cord selvages are perfect for projects like scarves, throws, or decorative edges on garments where the edge will be a prominent visual feature and not primarily used for seaming. They give a beautiful, finished look.