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Do 501s have zippers?

Published in Levi's 501 Features 3 mins read

While the original and most iconic Levi's 501® jean is famously known for its button fly, yes, there is a specific version of 501s that features a zipper closure: the 501Z.

The Enduring Legacy of Levi's 501: Button Fly vs. Zipper

The Levi's 501® is a cornerstone of denim history, universally recognized for its distinctive button fly. This traditional closure has been a hallmark of the jean since its inception, contributing to its rugged durability and classic aesthetic. However, the world of 501s is more diverse than some might realize.

The Introduction of the 501Z

In 1954, Levi Strauss & Co. innovated by introducing the 501Z, an adaptation of the classic 501® jean that replaced the traditional button fly with a zipper. This significant change was largely driven by consumer preferences, particularly on the East Coast of the United States, where workers were accustomed to the faster and more convenient zipper fly found on other brands.

The debut of the 501Z sparked a lively debate among denim enthusiasts, dividing them into two distinct camps:

  • Loyalists devoted to the original button fly, appreciating its heritage and robust feel.
  • Modernists who loved the convenience and contemporary appeal of the zipper.

This internal "denim debate" underscored the varying practical needs and stylistic preferences within the growing market for blue jeans.

Key Differences: 501 vs. 501Z

Understanding the distinction between these two iconic models is crucial for any denim aficionado.

Feature Original Levi's 501® Jeans Levi's 501Z® Jeans (1954 Onwards)
Fly Closure Button fly Zipper fly
Introduction Late 19th Century (as the "XX") 1954
Primary Appeal Heritage, durability, authentic feel Convenience, modernity, ease of use

Identifying 501 Models

When purchasing 501s, especially vintage or specific reproductions, knowing what to look for can help you determine the fly type:

  • Check the Label: Modern Levi's 501 models will clearly state if they are a "501" (button fly) or sometimes a "501 Cropped" or "501 '90s" which might still refer to the classic button fly, but reproductions of the 501Z will be explicitly labeled as such.
  • Inspect the Fly: The most straightforward method is to physically examine the front closure. A quick glance will reveal whether it's a series of buttons or a zipper.
  • Product Descriptions: Online retailers and product tags will typically specify "button fly" or "zipper fly" in the feature list.

The Evolution of the 501 Family

Over the decades, the 501 line has seen various reinterpretations and adaptations to meet evolving tastes and demands. While the button-fly 501 remains the quintessential representation of the brand, the existence of the 501Z highlights Levi's commitment to innovation and catering to diverse consumer preferences. Today, while the classic button-fly 501 is predominant, specific zipper-fly versions or limited edition reproductions of the 501Z may still be available, celebrating this important chapter in denim history.

For those seeking the traditional experience, the button-fly 501 delivers. For those who prefer the speed and simplicity of a zipper without sacrificing the iconic 501 fit, the 501Z offered a compelling alternative.