To sew jersey fabric successfully, the most critical step is to use the correct needle – a Ballpoint Needle or a Stretch Needle – to prevent damage and ensure smooth, elastic seams. These specialized needles have rounded tips that push fabric fibers aside instead of piercing them, which prevents holes and snags in the knit material.
Sewing jersey fabric requires a slightly different approach than woven fabrics due to its inherent stretch and tendency to curl or distort. With the right tools and techniques, you can achieve beautiful, professional-looking garments.
Essential Tools and Preparations for Sewing Jersey
Before you even touch your sewing machine, preparing your fabric and choosing the right tools will make a significant difference.
The Right Needle is Key
As mentioned, the type of needle you use is paramount when working with jersey.
- Ballpoint Needles (also known as jersey needles) have a slightly rounded tip designed to slide between the knit fibers.
- Stretch Needles have a more rounded tip and a specially designed eye and scarf to prevent skipped stitches on highly elastic fabrics like spandex blends.
Always choose the appropriate size for your fabric weight (e.g., a smaller size like 75/11 for lightweight jersey and a larger 90/14 for heavier knits).
Thread Choice
Opt for high-quality all-purpose polyester thread. Polyester has a slight stretch, which makes it ideal for seams that need to give a little. For sergers, woolly nylon or textured polyester in the loopers can provide even more stretch and softness to seams.
Fabric Preparation
Proper preparation prevents problems later:
- Pre-wash and Dry: Always pre-wash and dry your jersey fabric as you intend to wash the finished garment. This pre-shrinks the fabric and removes any manufacturing chemicals, preventing future distortion.
- Pressing: Pressing jersey with a steam iron before cutting can help relax the fibers and make it easier to handle. Avoid stretching the fabric as you press.
- Cutting:
- Use a rotary cutter and mat for precise, non-distorting cuts. If using scissors, use sharp fabric shears and avoid lifting the fabric too much from the table.
- Lay the fabric flat, ensuring it's not stretched or skewed. Pin pattern pieces generously or use pattern weights to hold them in place.
- Pay attention to the grainline, typically parallel to the selvage, to ensure the garment hangs correctly.
Machine Settings for Stretch Fabrics
Your sewing machine's settings play a crucial role in preventing wavy seams and skipped stitches.
Stitch Types for Jersey
Since jersey stretches, you need a stitch that will stretch with it. A standard straight stitch will break when the fabric stretches.
| Stitch Type | Description | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Zigzag Stitch | A basic, versatile stretch stitch found on most machines. Adjust width (1.5–2mm) and length (2–2.5mm). | Seams, hemming, creating elastic waistbands. Provides good stretch. |
| Stretch Stitch | Often looks like a lightning bolt or a triple straight stitch. Designed specifically for knit fabrics. | Seams that need maximum durability and stretch. Slower to sew and harder to unpick. |
| Twin Needle | Creates two parallel rows of straight stitching on the top and a zigzag on the bottom. | Hems and decorative topstitching on knit garments, mimicking a coverstitch machine. |
| Overlock/Serger | Professional-grade finish that trims, stitches, and finishes the seam in one pass. | Constructing entire garments, creating strong, stretchy, and clean seams quickly. Ideal for high-stretch fabrics. |
For general construction, a narrow zigzag (e.g., 0.5-1.0mm width, 2.5mm length) is often sufficient and creates a neat finish.
Tension and Pressure Foot
- Tension: Start with a slightly lower tension setting than you would for woven fabrics. Too much tension can cause the fabric to stretch out and create wavy seams. Test on a scrap first.
- Presser Foot Pressure: If your machine allows it, reduce the presser foot pressure slightly. This helps prevent the feed dogs from stretching the fabric as it passes through.
- Walking Foot: A walking foot is an invaluable accessory for sewing jersey. It has its own set of feed dogs on top, which helps feed the top and bottom layers of fabric through the machine evenly, preventing stretching, puckering, and fabric slippage.
- Differential Feed (on Sergers): If using a serger, experiment with the differential feed setting. Increasing it slightly can help prevent wavy seams, while decreasing it can create a gathering effect.
Stitch Length
A slightly longer stitch length (e.g., 2.5mm to 3mm) works best for jersey. Shorter stitches can pull and stretch the fabric.
Sewing Techniques for Smooth Results
Careful handling and technique will ensure your knit projects look professional.
Handling the Fabric
- Avoid Stretching: Never pull or stretch the fabric as you sew. Let the machine's feed dogs do the work. Guiding the fabric gently is fine, but avoid forcing it.
- Use Pins or Clips Generously: Pin or clip seams frequently to keep the fabric layers aligned. Wonder Clips are excellent for jersey as they don't pierce the fabric.
- Stabilize Where Needed: For shoulder seams, necklines, or areas prone to stretching out, consider stabilizing with clear elastic, twill tape, or fusible interfacing (like Pellon SF101 for knits). This adds durability and prevents distortion.
- Start and End with Scraps: When beginning a seam, especially on a delicate edge, place a scrap piece of fabric under the presser foot first, then butt your project fabric up to it. This prevents the machine from "eating" the fabric and creates a smoother start.
Seam Finishes
While a serger provides the ultimate professional finish, you can achieve neat seams with a regular machine:
- Serged Seam: Best for fast, clean, and stretchy finishes.
- Zigzag Finish: After sewing a seam with a stretch stitch, you can trim the seam allowance and finish the raw edge with a wider zigzag stitch to prevent fraying.
- French Seam (for some knits): While less common, a very stable knit can sometimes be sewn with a modified French seam for a fully enclosed finish, though it offers less stretch.
Hemming Jersey
Hemming knit fabric requires a stitch that stretches.
- Twin Needle Hem: This is a popular choice for a professional-looking hem. It creates two parallel lines of stitching on the right side and a zigzag on the wrong side, allowing the hem to stretch.
- Coverstitch Machine: If you have access to one, a coverstitch machine is specifically designed for hemming knits, providing a perfectly stretchy and professional finish.
- Zigzag Hem: A simple zigzag stitch can also be used for hemming, offering flexibility.
- Stretch Blind Hem: Some machines have a stretch blind hem stitch, which creates a nearly invisible hem from the right side while retaining stretch.
Common Challenges and Solutions
| Problem | Possible Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Wavy Seams | Fabric stretched while sewing, too much presser foot pressure, incorrect tension. | Use a walking foot, reduce presser foot pressure, lower tension, use differential feed (serger). Avoid pulling. |
| Skipped Stitches | Wrong needle type, dull needle, incorrect tension. | Use a new ballpoint or stretch needle, adjust tension. |
| Puckering | Too much tension, inappropriate stitch length, dull needle. | Loosen tension, lengthen stitch, use a fresh ballpoint/stretch needle. |
| Fabric Gets "Eaten" | Starting too close to the edge, dull needle. | Start with a scrap fabric, use a fresh needle, use a straight stitch plate (if available). |
| Curling Edges | Natural property of many knits. | Use pins/clips, spray starch, or a temporary adhesive spray to stabilize edges before cutting and sewing. |
Tips for Beginners
- Practice on Scraps: Always test your needle, stitch type, tension, and stitch length on a scrap piece of your actual fabric before sewing your project.
- Go Slow: There's no rush. Sewing slowly and carefully allows you to maintain control and achieve better results.
- Don't Be Afraid to Unpick: Mistakes happen. Use a seam ripper patiently to correct errors.
By understanding the unique properties of jersey and implementing these specialized techniques, you'll find sewing with knit fabrics to be a rewarding experience, opening up a world of comfortable and stylish garments.
