Fitting skirting boards together requires precise cuts and proper joining techniques to achieve a seamless and professional finish throughout a room. The method depends largely on whether you're joining boards at an internal corner, an external corner, or along a long, straight wall.
Essential Skirting Board Joint Types
Achieving a professional finish with skirting boards relies on understanding and executing the correct joint types for different situations. Each joint serves a specific purpose, ensuring both aesthetic appeal and structural integrity.
| Joint Type | Purpose | Best For | Benefits |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mitre Joint | Connecting boards at an angle | External Corners, occasionally Internal | Clean, sharp appearance; symmetrical |
| Cope Joint | Connecting boards at an internal corner | Internal Corners | Accommodates slight wall imperfections; less prone to opening |
| Scarf Joint | Extending board length along a straight wall | Long Walls where one board isn't long enough | Nearly invisible when done correctly; provides continuous look |
The Mitre Joint (External Corners)
A mitre joint involves cutting two pieces of skirting board at opposing angles, typically 45 degrees, so they meet perfectly to form a 90-degree corner. This is the standard method for external (outside) corners.
Steps for an External Mitre Joint:
- Measure and Mark: Carefully measure the wall section leading up to the external corner. When preparing your cut, begin by marking the direction of the cut on the skirting board. For an external corner, the longest point of the board will be on the outside edge.
- First 45-Degree Cut: Using a mitre saw, make the first 45-degree cut on the skirting board. Ensure the saw's angle is set precisely to 45 degrees.
- Test Fit and Fix: Temporarily place the cut skirting board against the wall. If the fit is good, proceed to fixing the skirting board in place using appropriate adhesive and/or nails.
- Second Board Marking: Bring the second piece of skirting board to meet the first at the corner. Overlap it slightly and make the second mark on the skirting board where it meets the end of the first board. This mark indicates the start of your next cut.
- Second 45-Degree Cut: Reverse the angle of your mitre saw and make the second 45-degree cut on the adjoining skirting board. This cut should mirror the first, ensuring both angles sum to 90 degrees when joined.
- Joining: Bring both precisely cut pieces together. Apply a strong wood adhesive to the joint before pressing them firmly.
- Tip: For internal corners, while a mitre joint is an option, it can open up over time due to timber movement or wall imperfections. A cope joint is generally preferred for internal corners for a more forgiving and durable finish.
The Cope Joint (Internal Corners - The Professional Choice)
The cope joint is the most robust and preferred method for internal (inside) corners, as it accommodates minor wall irregularities and prevents gaps from appearing over time.
Steps for a Cope Joint:
- First Board Square Cut: Cut the first piece of skirting board to fit snugly into the internal corner with a straight, 90-degree (square) cut. Fix this board into position along the wall.
- Second Board Mitre Cut: Take the second piece of skirting board that will meet the first. Cut a 45-degree internal mitre on this board, as if you were making a regular internal mitre joint. This cut creates the profile you will follow.
- Coping Saw Profile: Using a coping saw, carefully cut along the profile created by the 45-degree mitre cut. Angle the coping saw slightly (approximately 5-10 degrees) towards the back of the board, creating an undercut. This undercut ensures that only the front edge of the profile makes contact with the first board, providing a tighter fit.
- Test Fit: Test the fit of the coped joint against the first, square-cut board. Shave off any excess wood with a utility knife or sandpaper until the joint is perfectly tight.
- Join: Apply adhesive to the coped end and press it firmly against the first board, then fix the remainder of the board to the wall.
The Scarf Joint (Long Straight Walls)
When a single length of skirting board isn't long enough to cover an entire wall, a scarf joint is used to seamlessly join two pieces end-to-end.
Steps for a Scarf Joint:
- Measure and Cut: Determine where the joint will fall, ideally not directly above a stud if using nails. Cut both boards at opposing 45-degree angles. For instance, the end of the first board might have a 45-degree angle slanting right, and the start of the second board will have a 45-degree angle slanting left. This creates an overlapping joint rather than a butt joint (which is prone to gapping).
- Apply Adhesive: Apply wood glue to both cut surfaces of the joint.
- Join and Secure: Bring the two boards together, ensuring the profiles align perfectly. Joining the skirting boards together this way creates an extended, continuous piece. Secure the joint with a few small panel pins or staples, ensuring they don't split the wood. Fix the rest of the board to the wall.
General Skirting Board Fitting Process
Regardless of the joint type, the overall installation process follows a sequence for optimal results:
- Preparation: Ensure walls are clean, dry, and free of obstructions. Measure all walls accurately, accounting for door frames and corners.
- Marking & Cutting: As highlighted, precise marking is crucial before any cut. This includes marking the direction of the cut and making subsequent marks for adjoining pieces. Execute your 45-degree cuts or coping cuts based on the joint type required. Always cut boards slightly long and trim as needed for a perfect fit.
- Fixing the Skirting Board: Once a board is cut to size and its initial joint (if any) is formed, it's time for fixing the skirting board to the wall. This can be done using:
- Adhesive: Strong grip adhesives are popular for plasterboard walls.
- Nails: Brad nails or panel pins, driven into wall studs or battens.
- Screws: Countersunk screws provide a very secure fix, especially on uneven walls.
- Joining Skirting Boards Together: When bringing two boards together to form a corner or a scarf joint, apply wood glue to the cut faces before pressing them firmly. This helps create a durable bond.
- Finishing Touches: After all skirting boards are fitted, it's time for applying a finish. This includes filling any nail holes or small gaps at the top edge of the skirting board (where it meets the wall) with decorators' caulk or wood filler. Sand smooth, then paint or stain to match your room's decor.
Essential Tools and Materials
To fit skirting boards professionally, you'll need:
- Mitre Saw: Essential for precise angle cuts (manual or powered).
- Coping Saw: For intricate cuts on cope joints.
- Tape Measure: For accurate measurements.
- Pencil: For marking cuts.
- Spirit Level: To ensure boards are level.
- Stud Finder: To locate wall studs for nailing.
- Adhesive: Strong grip construction adhesive.
- Nails/Screws: Depending on fixing method.
- Hammer/Nail Gun/Drill: For fixing.
- Caulk Gun & Decorators' Caulk: For filling gaps.
- Wood Filler: For nail holes and minor imperfections.
- Sandpaper: For smoothing surfaces.
- Safety Glasses: Always protect your eyes when cutting.
Professional Tips for Seamless Joints
- Practice Cuts: If new to cutting angles, practice on scrap pieces of skirting board first.
- Measure Twice, Cut Once: This old adage is critical for skirting, as errors can be costly.
- Undercut Slightly: For internal corners, a slight undercut with the coping saw (5-10 degrees) can help the front edge of the joint meet perfectly, even if the corner isn't exactly 90 degrees.
- Dry Fit Everything: Before applying any adhesive or permanent fixings, dry fit all your cuts to ensure they meet perfectly.
- Use Good Quality Skirting: High-quality timber or MDF skirting boards are easier to work with and yield better results.
By following these methods and ensuring precision in your measurements and cuts, you can achieve a professional and long-lasting skirting board installation that enhances the beauty of your space.
