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When Was Calico Discovered?

Published in Textile History 2 mins read

Calico originated as early as the 11th century in Calicut, India, a region that gave the fabric its enduring name.

The Origins and Early History of Calico

Calico, a plain-woven textile made from unbleached and often not fully processed cotton, has a rich history deeply rooted in the Indian subcontinent. Its genesis can be traced back to the ancient port city of Calicut, now known as Kozhikode, in the state of Kerala, India.

While its exact "discovery" date isn't recorded as a single event, evidence suggests its existence and production by the 11th century. This makes calico one of the earliest forms of cotton fabric to gain widespread recognition and use.

Early Documentation and Mentions

Further solidifying its long history, an Indian writer named Hemacandra provided a notable mention of calico in the 12th century. He referred to chhimpa, or calico prints, which were often decorated with chhapanti, a distinctive printed lotus design. This indicates that by the 12th century, not only was calico being produced, but it was also being adorned with intricate patterns, showcasing a sophisticated textile tradition.

A Timeline of Calico's Early History

To better understand the timeline of calico's emergence, consider the following key periods:

Century Event Significance
11th Century Calico originates in Calicut, India. Earliest known period of production and use.
12th Century Indian writer Hemacandra mentions chhimpa (calico prints). Documented evidence of calico and its decorative use.
17th-18th Centuries Calicoes become a crucial commodity in trade between India and Europe. Global recognition and economic importance of the fabric.

The Global Impact of Calico

The versatility and durability of calico made it a highly sought-after commodity. By the 17th and 18th centuries, calico textiles became incredibly important in international trade. Indian calicoes were extensively traded between India and European nations, significantly influencing fashion, manufacturing, and economies across continents. This global demand led to the establishment of major textile industries and trade routes that shaped economic history.

What is Calico?

Calico is recognized for its plain weave and often natural, unbleached appearance. It's coarser than other cotton fabrics like muslin but more finely woven than canvas. This unique texture and cost-effectiveness made it popular for a variety of uses, from everyday clothing and furnishings to artistic canvases and prototypes in fashion design.