Fixing a waterlogged galvanized pressure tank primarily involves restoring the correct air-water balance by adjusting the air pressure, and in some cases, replacing the tank if it's internally faulty.
A waterlogged pressure tank is a common issue in well water systems where the tank loses its air charge. This air pocket is essential for proper system function, acting as a cushion to maintain water pressure and reduce pump cycling. When the air is depleted or absorbed into the water, the tank becomes "waterlogged," leading to frequent pump cycles and erratic water pressure.
Identifying a Waterlogged Pressure Tank
Recognizing the signs of a waterlogged tank is the first step towards a solution.
- Short Cycling Pump: The well pump turns on and off very rapidly (every few seconds), even when only a small amount of water is used.
- Pulsating Water Flow: Water pressure fluctuates noticeably at faucets, often feeling like it's surging and then dropping.
- Constant Pump Running: The pump runs almost continuously, indicating it's struggling to maintain system pressure.
- Low Water Pressure: Overall water pressure in the home might be consistently lower than usual.
Here's a quick reference for symptoms and actions:
| Symptom | Potential Cause | Action |
|---|---|---|
| Short cycling pump | Waterlogged tank, low air charge | Adjust air pressure, check for leaks. |
| Weak water pressure | Waterlogged tank, clogged pipes | Adjust air pressure, inspect plumbing. |
| Pulsating water flow | Waterlogged tank, pump issues | Adjust air pressure, check pump operation. |
| Constant pump running | Waterlogged tank, significant leak | Adjust air air, check entire system for leaks or internal tank faults. |
Step-by-Step Guide to Fixing a Waterlogged Galvanized Pressure Tank
Restoring a galvanized pressure tank involves a series of practical steps to re-establish the correct air cushion.
1. Shut Down the System
Safety first. Before attempting any repairs, ensure the power to your well pump is completely off. Locate the circuit breaker that controls your well pump and switch it to the "off" position. This prevents the pump from activating unexpectedly while you are working.
2. Drain the Pressure Tank
To drain the tank, open a faucet in your home (preferably one on the lowest level, like a basement utility sink or outdoor spigot) and leave it open. Then, locate the drain valve at the bottom of your pressure tank and open it. The tank will drain completely as water flows out of both the open faucet and the tank's drain. This process can take some time, depending on the tank's size. Ensure all water is out to allow the tank to refill with air properly.
3. Check and Adjust Air Pressure
Once the tank is fully drained of water, it should be entirely filled with air. This is the crucial stage for fixing a waterlogged tank.
- Locate the Air Valve: Find the Schrader valve (looks like a tire valve stem) usually located on the top or side of the tank.
- Check Pressure: Use a tire pressure gauge to check the existing air pressure. For most galvanized pressure tanks, the ideal air pressure should be set to approximately 30 psi. This pressure should be measured before the pump turns on and after the tank has been fully drained.
- Adjust Pressure:
- If the reading is too low, use an air compressor to add air until it reaches 30 psi.
- If the reading is too high, gently depress the pin in the center of the valve to release air until the desired pressure is achieved.
- It's important to set the tank's air pressure 2 psi below the pump's cut-in pressure setting. For example, if your pump turns on at 30 psi, set the tank air pressure to 28 psi. This ensures the tank can fully empty before the pump kicks in.
4. Inspect for Internal Faults or Leaks
While adjusting the air, it's a good opportunity to check for other issues. If, after setting the pressure, the tank rapidly becomes waterlogged again, or if you hear air escaping, the tank might be internally faulty or have a leak.
- Rust and Corrosion: Galvanized tanks are susceptible to rust over time. Visible rust, especially around seams or the bottom, can indicate a compromised tank wall that will eventually leak.
- Pinholes: Even small pinhole leaks can cause air to escape. Apply soapy water to the tank's exterior; bubbles indicate a leak.
- Internal Defects: In some cases, the tank's internal structure may have failed, preventing it from holding its air charge properly. This often necessitates replacement.
5. Reactivate and Flush the System
After the air pressure has been adjusted correctly, close the drain valve on the tank and any open faucets. Turn the power back on to your well pump at the circuit breaker.
- Monitor Refill: Allow the system to refill with water. The pump will run until the system reaches its cut-out pressure.
- Flush the Lines: Once the system is pressurized, open faucets throughout your home, starting from the lowest level and working your way up. Flush the lines until the water runs clear and smooth, indicating any trapped air or sediment has been purged from the system. This step is crucial for ensuring optimal water quality and flow.
When Replacement is Necessary
While adjusting air pressure can often fix a waterlogged tank, there are situations where replacement is the only viable solution. If the tank is internally faulty, such as having significant internal rust, corrosion, or structural integrity issues that prevent it from holding air, it will need to be replaced. Attempting to repair a severely compromised galvanized tank is often impractical and can lead to more significant problems down the line. Consider upgrading to a bladder-style pressure tank, which typically requires less frequent air adjustments.
For more information on general well system maintenance, consult resources like the Homeowner's Guide to Well Systems.
